Сан-Марино: поездка на один день в августе

По площади страна на горе равна подмосковной Коломне или Пушкино — мы не могли такое пропустить

В Сан-Марино, микро-государство на территории Италии, мы ехали из любопытства и еще потому, что «все едут — и нам надо». Теперь можем честно сказать: такую красоту пропустить нельзя. Минимум — 2 часа, максимум — ну это как повезет, ночь здесь точно стоит провести 

На территории Италии находится одно из карликовых государств мира – республика Сан-Марино, в которой живет 33 тысячи человек. Главный интерес для туристов представляет столица с таким же названием. Ее исторический центр находится на склоне горного массива Монте-Титано, на высоте 750 м над уровнем моря

Средневековый центр города Сан-Марино и вершина горы Монте-Титано находятся в списке ЮНЕСКО. Кроме возможности попасть в другое государство и увидеть старинный город с крепостными стенами и башнями, сюда стоит приехать ради панорамы, которая открывается с горы — Сан-Марино расположен в 13 км от побережья Адриатического моря в предгорьях Аппенин, поэтому отсюда хорошо видно и море, и горы. Аппенинские горы выглядят совсем по-другому, чем Альпы, которые мы видели, путешествуя по городам северной Италии.

Сан-Марино — не только одно из самых маленьких государств мира — его площадь всего 61 кв. км, но и самое старое государство Европы в существующих сейчас границах. Большую часть территории страны занимают скалы.

Климат типичный средиземноморский, но из-за высоты ночи холоднее, чем в равнинных районах. Официальный язык итальянский, 80% населения – санмаринцы.

У этого маленького и гордого государства интересная история. Еще в начале 4 века каменотес Марин, спасаясь от преследований христиан, нашел тут пристанище и открыл каменоломню, а позже основал келью на вершине горы. На месте кельи возник монастырь, названный именем Святого Марина, очень почитаемого у паломников, и существовал независимо от всех соседей

Первые столетия существования Сан-Марино находился под протекторатом соседнего герцогства, но в 855 году получил независимость, поэтому считается самой старой республикой на планете. Конституция была принята в 1600 году. Управляют Сан-Марино два капитана-регента, которых назначает каждые полгода местный парламент. Много лет Италия запрещала Сан-Марино строить собственные теле- и радиостанции.

В Сан-Марино мы приехали из Болоньи, вместо запланированных 2 часов на авто добирались дольше – дорога проходит через курорт Римини, и в августе трасса оказалась очень загруженной.

По дороге, ведущей в столицу, можно увидеть несколько городков – Догано, Серравалле, Фиорина, из-за крошечных размеров государства они просто плавно переходят из одного в другой. В Сан-Марино нас удивила чистота, все очень аккуратно, в отличие от соседней части Италии, где периодически встречаются заброшенные дома или неухоженные пустыри.

Городки застроены в основном виллами с красными черепичными крышами, старинными и современными, невысокими многоквартирными домами, встречаются и довольно большие отели. Дороги и тротуары  просто в идеальном состоянии, ближе к горе — с крутыми виражами и поворотами. Людей на обычных улицах было очень мало, в отличие от старой части Сан-Марино на горе. По дороге на гору видели несколько вилл с бассейнами прямо над обрывом, с потрясающим обзором.

Подъем на горку — крутой серпантин, дорога узкая, много транспорта с туристами, а местные, в лучших традициях горных стран, ездят резво и резко. Если едете на своем автомобиле, нужно быть осторожным, особенно в осенне-зимний период, когда мокро и скользко. Вдоль дороги хватает парковочных мест, чем ближе к вершине припаркуетесь, тем легче вам будет уставшими возвращаться к машине.

В августе на вершине солнце было очень активное, немного спасала тень от деревьев и массивных крепостных стен. Хотя в целом тут прохладнее, чем в окрестных итальянских городках. Очень понравилось большое количество зелени — склоны густо засажены соснами, пихтами, елями и кипарисами, а внутри замков много зеленых газонов с цветущими клумбами, без них серые каменные стены выглядели бы не так интересно.

Сан-Марино вполне можно осмотреть за день, но можно остаться и на дольше — вокруг открываются такие пейзажи и виды, что можно любоваться ими часами. Думаю, что на рассвете или закате тут фантастическая красота. Есть много укромных уголков с шикарным видом, где можно присесть, отдохнуть или перекусить. На территории хватает ресторанов и пиццерий — все для туристов, которых очень много. Для семей с маленькими детьми экскурсия в Сан-Марино — не лучшая идея, из-за крутых подъемов, отвесных скал и отсутствия развлечений для малышей.

В Старом городе без проблем и относительно недорого можно купить сувениры, подарки, духи, аксессуары. Мы купили тарелку и туалетную воду производства Сан-Марино — копии известных духов, несмотря на невысокую цену, она оказалась стойкой и хорошего качества. Местной изюминой являются красивые расписные фигурные бутылки с ликерами, винами, граппой — в отдельных магазинах с алкоголем для туристов, отличная идея для подарков близким.

В Сан-Марино беспошлинная торговля, и считается, что цены на 20 % ниже, чем в Италии, поэтому многие итальянцы ездят сюда на шоппинг, покупают кожу, мех, обувь, сумки, алкоголь в магазинах и аутлетах, график работы которых в основном совпадает с итальянским — сиеста днем, выходной в воскресенье и двухнедельный отпуск в августе. Зимой и летом проходят распродажи.

В Сан-Марино мы впервые увидели автоматическую самомоющуюся туалетную кабинку. Для входа нужно вставить монетку, после выхода дверь блокируется, и внутри запускается короткий цикл мойки и дезинфекции, как в посудомоечной машине — внутри кабинка полностью металлическая.

Весь город Сан-Марино с его уникальным расположением – это и есть главная достопримечательность, но все же тут есть несколько строений, заслуживающих отдельного внимания.

Три башни — символ страны, изображены на флаге, гербе и монетах евро. Крепости, построенные на трех вершинах горы Монте-Титано — Гуаита (изначально построена как тюрьма в 11-м веке), Честа (построена в 13-м веке на самой высокой точке Сан-Марино, 750 м над уровнем моря) и Монтале (пятиугольная башня, построенная в 14-м веке).

Palazzo Publico, или Народный Дворец — резиденция парламента республики, а также мэрии города Сан-Марино. Базилика Сан-Марино — главный храм, посторенный в 19-м веке на месте обветшавшей старой церкви, существовавшей тут с 4 века. Тут хранятся мощи Святого Марина.

San Marino 1 day 5 min

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San Marino 1 day min

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